The Lady of Malagos Cheeses
It seemed like it was only yesterday when I first met Olive Puentespina in her little booth at a food trade exhibit in Davao, where I was totally smitten by her feta and pecorino-style cheeses from their goat farm. Besides what I thought was a darn good product, I also saw the fire of enthusiasm in the eyes of a true artisan and innovator, which are rare persons you don’t often meet. These are people who are not afraid to swim in unexplored waters and believe in their product.
She started with her husband, raising goats of the Boer variety which are large and bred for their meat because of their size. Unfortunately, the goat’s sensitivity to the high mineral content of the grass in the farm forced the couple to crossbreed them with Anglo Nubians. They suddenly had a sizeable surplus of milk, and this led to her making feta and fresh goat cheese. People who sampled her first cheeses were astounded with the quality, and eventually, she teamed up with Karin Carmona of PIECO to market her cheeses in Metro Manila.
By 2006, her cheese was cited by the Cheese Club of the Philippines as Cheese of the Month. She received an award of excellence in a trade fair and her cheeses were served on board Philippine Airlines business class by 2008.
I’m very proud to say that I was a partial contributor to her growing up by asking her to cross the line and make for me her first big wheels, which I served for my birthday alongside foreign cheeses. These huge wheels, which were aged for another three months, became such scene stealers that you will now find them on wine tastings and hotel buffets.
This year was a crossroad for Olive, who with the same fire and passion went on a cheese journey and attended lectures on artisanal cheese making abroad. Eventually, she ended up as a resource speaker, because her non-classic methods baffled cheese makers, such as making cheese at 35 degrees Celsius which supposedly derails sound cheese making principles.
Recently, I was invited to the Malagos Garden Resort, owned by the Puentespinas, in Calinan for a preview of new cheeses she was ready to launch and developing. Over lunch, it was clear how the artisanal and entrepreneurial spirit is cultivated among the Puentespina family whose focus is on their farm produce.
Lunch was simple and straightforward, but almost all that was served had emanated from the farm. We started out with a fresh salad basket of newly-harvested French beans, watercress, cherry tomatoes, and slivers of fresh kesong puti that was infused with green peppercorn and some with basil, which will be exclusive to Philippine Airlines. A tasty main course of grilled free-range Sasso chicken and some smoky pork ribs kept us on an enjoyable discussion on the qualities of Calinan chocolate and cacao.
We then had fruits like langka, durian, and chicos, all harvested from the farm. And to keep up with the Malagos-themed lunch, we had a pure tabliya chocolate cake, which boasted of the qualities of cacao grown in the area and had a beautiful balance of fruitiness, earthiness, spice, and winey appeal.
I cannot fully express the delight I felt when I was shown the variety of cheeses that she had ready as commercial samples. I could safely say that she could be the first Philippine cheese master, having created all these varieties that are unique in themselves and world class. It was a pity I did not bring good wines or even a stash of Belgian beers to pair with such wonderful creations.
Here is a list of cheeses from that private preview (our foodie readers don’t have to be jealous because by the time they read this article, many of her cheeses will be available. Call Karin Carmona at 892 8286/752 3330 or email her at karincarmona@yahoo.com [1] and olivepp_ph@yahoo.com [2].):
Classic Cheeses
These cheeses are Olive’s mainstays and the first cheeses that she produced.
Feta. Sharp and tangy with a mild bite and not as salty as traditional feta, Olive is passionate about this one. She describes it as taking a trip to the Amalfi Coast or the Mediterranean whenever you taste it.
Chevre. This French-style goat cheese is lightly crumbly with small particles, with light acid, and good for spreading.
Kesong Puti Style. Less acidic with a silky mouthfeel, it is lightly chewy and great for slicing and salads.
Pecorino Type. This cheese is excellent for grating, but is sometimes a little too dry for plain eating. Blending it with cheese sauces will give the sauce a good boost.
New Cheeses
These are cheeses that had come out in the past two years and some that are to be launched.
Blue Goat. This is a medium-textured cheese surrounded by a blue mold and has mild flavor due to its uninfected interior. Personally, I recommend punching micro holes in this cheese to infect the interior. I had this after four months of aging and it sure beats a lot of the Danish and Spanish medium blue cheeses.
Aged Pepato. Made from aged cow’s milk with green peppercorns, this is one of my favorites and has gained a lot of international respect among cheese makers and cheese masters. Complex and winey with brined olive, fermented flavors, and meaty notes, it is delicious melted or grilled.
PAL Cheese. This one is silky and velvety with light chewy attributes and infused with herbs and spices like basil, rosemary, and pepper, among others. Unfortunately, it might not be available to mere mortals who can’t afford business class.
Blush. This cheese is marinated in Malagos bignay wine and has complex flavors of dried fruit and fermented flavors mixing with the creaminess of cheese, which gives character to this creation.
Goat Camembert. On its maiden launch, it has an angelic white mold exterior, with grassy, flowery flavors and a creamy interior with the lightest hint of goat.
Manchego. This cheese is sharp, with medium hardness, light flavors reminiscent of goat, and traces of nuttiness.
Experimental Prototypes
These are future cheeses that we pre-tasted, and according to Olive, need a little work.
Blue Manchego. Made from a goat and cow’s milk blend with a medium texture, light blue streaks give this cheese another dimension to the sharpness of the Manchego style. Of course, since I am a lover of ripe cheeses, I prefer this two or three months more, when it is fully veined.
Blue Pecorino. Another hard blue cheese experiment that has very good potential, it is unfortunate that its blue veining is uneven and inconsistent, and has a hard time invading or infecting the cheese because of its hardness.
Fromage Pres. A stroke of genius on Olive’s part, this one is a fresh cheese that is immediately served after it has been hung and removed of its whey. This is a scattered unshaped cheese, an incurred form, which is very much like ancient homemade cheeses served after fermentation. I hope that she sells this already, because it has a long shelf life anyway.
Lord of the Stink. I had this prototype a long time ago, which I served to some cheese lovers and wine aficionados who actually found the cheese with “character” but not at all that stinky. I don’t think Olive will be able to create this cheese again because the aroma produced by this cheese takes over her whole aging room. But, I still think this is one of the best cheeses she has ever produced. However, it is definitely not for the uninitiated.
Written by Gene Gonzalez
Source: Manila Bulletin